As I write this, the new owners will have been here for nine months. And a bit more by the time you get round to reading this of course, stop teasing me. The boss, Frank Villani, brings me the carte. He announces flat out as if waving a banner: "there are no chips or ketchup here!". He is a sort of food hero. Where most restaurants count their words as if being taxed by the syllable, words are king in this establishment. The talkative chap escorts us throughout the meal. He tells us (amongst other things) that his wife is behind the stoves. We appreciate it as it is a method that works. Céline, as this is her name, learnt how to cook with her grandmother. Like a Saint-Malo smuggler, the boss slips in that "we do fresh vegetables and products here". Without forgetting to name the producers who take part in the operation. We have two 28 € menus to check it out. 28 € isn't cheap, but it all depends what's in it. The daily starter is announced theatrically as being "gratinée de pommes de terre et pomme fruit et camembert au lait cru" (potato and apple gratin with unpasteurized camembert). Or something like that. We didn't get time to write down the titles. In any case, it's good and deserves a first 14/20 from Mauricette. For me: "poêlée d'escargots et fondue de poireaux" (fried snails and leeks). It isn't too strong to taste, it is rather creamy and a pleasure to eat, 14,5/20. To follow: "brochet poché sauce échalotes" (poached pike shallot sauce) that the lady with the green hat gives another 14/20. My "souris d'agneau confite" (crystallised lamb) is good. The well cooked meat is supple and surrounded by delicious vegetables. 14,5/20 for the whole dish. For dessert I have "poire au vin" (pear in wine). The pear is red all the way through, the syrup is correctly reduced and spiced, 14,5/20. Mauricette seems amazed at the quality of her "crème brûlée aux marrons glacés" (crème brûlée with chestnuts). The problem is that she has eaten so many sub-contract, adulterated and... botched ones! 14,5/20. The curious thing is that we feel that we had found the same style of cookery that appealed to us when this place was called "l'Artichouette". Which just goes to show our age, and Mauricette's more than mine. So. And then we present ourselves. As many clever saucepan wizards, Céline appreciates the BàO that she says she always has "handy". Her husband the waiter doesn't want to be in it at all! Maybe he thinks that we need his permission!