There is no such thing as chance. When you know Isabelle Nonès a bit, you know that she is not inclined to making waves, noise or a racket. This is confirmed by her choice to settle in the discreet "rue Rocca". It's a question of temperament. For this second test (second year) this pretty thirty year old who passed through the Ritz and Royal-Monceau, then chez Lévy and the CNTL in Marseilles, I discover high standard cookery, I dive into something delicious. I dive into the "verre d'eau" if you like, but it's one long deep dive! You just have to aim well: 9 rue Rocca in Marseilles' 8th district, at the end of "Paradis". She uses fresh excellent products to prove it, as with my starter: "Saint-Jacques rôties au chorizo". She takes you away whilst respecting the shellfish, here's an admirable 16/20. What follows isn't common: the choice of garnishing conditions the dish! Four possible sorts! Potatoes with bacon, stuffed cabbage leaves, risotto of the moment or an assortment of seasonal vegetables. I choose the latter to go with my "dos de cabillaud, assortiment de légumes de saison".

The cod holds together beautifully and is helped by impeccable cooking, a few graceful recipients with butter fried young carrots and asparagus of the moment, crystallised well worked aubergine. And also a glass with a personal sort of "sauce vierge" with a cherry tomato and olive paste. I pour it over the fish's supple meat. Goodness, I wipe up every little drop without any form of complex! The bread is also super! 15,5/20 for this dish! The dessert is worked and is the sort to make you want to change career and become a pastry cook! It is called "ravioles d'agrumes, sauce mangue" (citrus fruit ravioli, mango sauce) and you'll have something to write home about! If there are none left it's just too bad! You'll have to come back! Like everyone else! 15/20. The dining room is bright and neatly arranged like a bistrot with double cotton cloths and a waxed parquet floor. In the dining room Julien Dupont gets on with his job, he is as regular as a metronome which has the sort of humour that you enjoy. The wine menu is clever; I see some interesting bottles and some half bottles of Chablis. The funny thing about restaurants like this one is they hit the bull's eye for pleasing their clients under the indifferent noses of the official media. It seems that good dishes only attract connoisseurs.