It's so good! In this case why give any sort of commentary, best just say thank-you! Well maybe I should let you know at least... Rigorous Christian Ernst invents gastronomy based on good products and his pastry maker training. The end result is rare even so; it is ambitious and right to the point. Being a serious restaurant owner can drive you mad. You have to keep an eye on everything and keep behind the flag. It's not easy for people working alongside such as the chef's wife Florence. They need to know that the only beneficiary of such demanding work is the client: and is he ever happy! Can you imagine Mauricette with a happy face? She looks like one of Dubout's characters in the middle of a Raphael painting! So! Marvellous meal. The mise en bouche is tasty without any fuss. A 5 course meal (after the mise en bouche) at 48 €. I can see the accountants dashing for their calculators: less than 10 € a dish. And such high standard food! The spirit of the dishes is colourful and rather like Monet. The pertinent flavours crisscross. Iodine, sea weed, smoke, bitterness, roundness, densities and playful temperatures. Like my "St-Jacques grillées, chausson de pommes vertes à l'espadon fumé et son écume de cresson" (grilled scallops, apple pie with smoked swordfish, whipped cress cream), at 16/20.

Then "bruschetta de foie gras sur un velouté de légumes oubliés, écume de châtaigne" (foie gras on toast with forgotten vegetable soup and whipped chestnut cream), it is rustic and lively. Can you call food "lively"? Maybe... in any case 16/20. The blackboard is attractive, like a horizontal painting: "duo de chapon de Bresse sur une pastilla au citron et sésame, jus gras" (capon duo with lemon and sesame seed pastry, rich jus). The title doesn't let on about the well cared for vegetables which are more like sweets. 16/20. Cheese? Cheese. "Croustillant de St-Marcellin, chutney d'oignons" (crisp St-Marcellin, onion chutney), it is refined and clever. 15,5/20. A royal conclusion, a delicious suite with "boule givré, litchis passion sur un macaron framboise et pétales de rose en cristalline" (iced ball, litchi passion on raspberry macaroon with rose petal crystals), it is precise and original. 17/20 to conclude, and that's telling you! The wine menu is straight to the point. I like the originality of the contemporary unfussy decor; it's just what you need to not take your mind off the essential part. Well done (too) to the dining room staff for the steady rhythm which is comforting. I had a really good moment, this is a splendid table.