Cannes (06) |
Maitre Renard
4 rue Saint Antoine 06400 - Cannes Phone : 04.93.39.99.38
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Here is a story about a beast that even Jean de La Fontaine wouldn't have disowned! A house that breaths passion and originality lined with an uncommon sense of conviviality. The cuisine is influenced by foreign parts and far off lands. The place is a cosy, comfy cocoon. Warm colours and well planned deco become a theatre to a cuisine artist of the kind that we rarely see! Philippe Renard plays a discreet role behind the counter. He works away before our goggling eyes in a mini kitchen, without a doubt a leftover habit: he spent a few years on luxurious cruise boats where each square foot is worth its' size in gold! This pure bred man from Nantes learnt his career with the French companions, and travelled around the world before settling down in Cannes, with friend and administrator Jacques Buisson, who allows the chef to worry about nothing other than what he's going to put in the next menu. A unique menu at 34 €, he can't afford to go wrong here! I inspect the carte from top to bottom: 7 starters, 7 dishes, 7 desserts. Choice for all. I head straight for "foie gras de canard maison millefeuille de pain d'épices au poivron rouge confit" (homemade foie gras in a gingerbread millefeuille with crystallised red pepper) as a starter, "mi-cuit" with a lovely pink colour, it is well worked. Generally foie gras doesn't need artefacts, but this is subtle. |  |
 | 15/20. I continue with "noix de St-Jacques enrubannées accompagnées de tagliatelles de courgettes" the shellfish are fresh and wrapped in streaky bacon. A sober and tasty sauce with nothing to hide, everything in this dish is precise. A drop of soy sauce... 15,5/20! This is when a couple of jazzy musicians decide to start singing on the restaurants' patio. Who would have guessed? In a part of Cannes that is dedicated to tourism and tourist traps, this is a great pleasure! So! The smart waiter (black trousers, white shirt under a white apron, which is only a detail but it adds to the theatrical side) is charming and polite. He brings me back to reality to suggest dessert but is already forgiven. I choose "crème brûlée aux trios parfums" which is brought to me on a slate and in flames. It's beautiful! Delicate and perfumed. 15/20 for a dessert so often seen, sub-contracted and ill-treated. Homemade if you please! With bubbling caramel which is still hot from the flames! Well worked cuisine, classic but joyful. Fresh and tasty with a spot of poetry or even light madness. A magical place, but don't get me wrong! There are no tricks going on in the kitchen! Everything is clear and the dishes are serious! You're going to laugh: seeing how successful it is, the dining room is too small! What fun! In Cannes! Who'd have believed it?
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| Welcome : |  | 16/20 |
| Attendance : |  | 16/20 |
| Quality/Price : |  | 15/20 |
| Setting : |  | 17/20 |
| Bread : |  | 15/20 |
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| Chef : Philippe Renard |
Menu at 34 €. Exceptionally open at lunchtime and Sunday evenings. Musicians on Thursday evenings and week-ends. Patio on the street. Booking highly recommended.
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