Three years ago after having spent some time in the South-West (Lot, Tarn), Françoise and Yannick Besset decided to set themselves up in Aubagne. Good. They then contacted a dozen specialised estate agents. Then they took on three advertising agencies to prepare a thick press book, hired a fleet of cars with big stickers saying "Les Arômes" on the doors, sent out loads of invitations to radio and television VIPs as well as local newspapers offering free mobile phones to win, and in the evening they went to bed exhausted by so much agitation but went to sleep quickly enough dreaming about their joint ambition: becoming famous, being seen on TV at last and shining under projectors in front of cameras. There you are. Stuff and nonsense? Yes: my whole story is a fib. Pure invention: no-one is as discreet as the Bessets! It doesn't prevent the fact that their charming table's reputation grew rapidly, but naturally without any sort of doping. There's nothing better than a restaurant well run. Along with Mauricette, the one who could have had a career as top model back in the 1930s if only she had shaved her chin, I enjoy this craftsman chef's brilliant work more than ever.

He may be helped considerably by high quality products, but even so, it takes a certain amount of know-how. Our feast starts off with a delicious "mise en bouche". Then the lady with the green hat follows with "lapin farci aux chanterelles" (rabbit stuffed with morel mushrooms), it takes her back to her very distant rural childhood. She gives it 15,5/20 flat out. For me it's 16/20 for my "bar de ligne Ile d'Oléron aux favouilles" (sea bass with tiny crabs). The fish is soberly cooked, it suffices itself and there's no need to go over the top. The clear, discreet sauce is served on one side. Mauricette and I totally agree that the desserts have gained in quality. The "baba au rhum" is a proper one! Not a soggy thing that's always a deception. Here you are: an easy 15,5/20! And 16/20 for the "tarte au café". It's an elegant parallelepiped made of shortbread and a subtle coffee emulsion. Simple but well prepared dishes which express the chef's rigorous but discreet nature, you can feel that he likes good products and drastic cooking times. We must congratulate Françoise Besset for the way she runs her very pretty and gentle house. Without her, the dishes would have a lot less charm.