Mathias Grand is fit and healthy! He's perfectly sharp now that he's behind the stoves again! It's just that after having been to his pretty table, which is as discreet as a dragon fly blowing bubbles, we've started to get to know it. Where others slip into easy habits and the gentle life gained by working on the coast, this man asks himself the right questions and gets on with it, he knocks the nail spot on the cauliflower head. Just serious, really serious. Clear, neat, firm and colourful dishes. There's a lot of fun in this young chef who passed through Da Silva at Gorges de Pennafort. Some people live on love alone, Mauricette lives on red wine and autumn. In the autumn for what's on the plates and red wine because she likes the colour. She starts off with "cassolette de champignons de saison et copeaux de jambon gratinée au four comme un crumble, crème de girolles et sucette d'andouillette" (seasonal mushroom and ham gratin, morel mushroom cream and chitterling sausage). She gives it 15,5/20! I do the same for my "ravioles de homard à ma façon, coulis de crustacés à la citronelle" (lobster ravioli, shellfish sauce with citronella). Incredible eh? Creativity and enthusiasm, really good. 15,5/20. The lady with the green hat follows with "cuisse de canard des Landes confites à basse température, jus corsé à la marjolaine, chips de Pancetta et purée montée à l'huile d'olive de Balagne" (crystallised duck leg, strong Marjory sauce, Pancetta crisps with olive oil).

This man may be generous in his titles but don't count on me telling him so! 15,5/20. And the portions are really generous! All of his dishes are! So generous that I can't get to the end of my "risotto de noix de St-Jacques fraiches, snacking de mini-légumes, copeaux de Parmesan et gressins à l'huile d'olive" (St-Jacques shellfish risotto with mini vegetables, slivers of Parmesan and olive oil bread sticks). 15,5/20. I have "gourmandise attitude façon tapas" for dessert, in other words a summary of all of the desserts on the menu. A last 15,5/20. I say a last one because Mauricette's dessert keeps her happy for over half an hour which is a record. The reason for this improvised face lift is her "crémeux au citron et pistache concassées en superposition, sablé cacahuètes et tartare d'agrumes au limoncello" (creamy lemon and chopped pistachio nuts, peanut biscuit and citrus fruit tartar with limoncello). She gives it 16/20 with the most unusual sigh. Here is classic cuisine brought up to date with some of the chef's smashing ideas. He knows his techniques and is rigorous in his work which is a rare thing. And we all get the chance to make the most of it... Especially as the wine menu is attractive!