As Mauricette would say "talent is like cheese, it improves". And Patrick Léonce, the talent in this kitchen, has had it for some time! Well we're not going to make any cheesy comments. But what on earth are the "serious" guides up to? Can't they hear the colonies of satisfied gourmets shouting out that there's no justice? Why do they ignore the noise made by such value for money? It's funny to see the distortion between gourmets on the spot and the sometimes hazardous references given out by food testing apostles. Along with the lady who holds her head high with her green hat and is bent in two due to rheumatism, we feast from the same menu. The "mise en bouche" starts the debate off at a high standard. 16/20. Then "foie gras de canard confit au laurier et julienne de légumes, barbe à papa à la poudre de cèpe" (crystallised duck foie gras with laurel leaves and vegetable julienne, candy floss with cep powder) for Mauricette, 16/20. "Raviole de thon mariné en gelée de tomate, farcie d'une bolognaise de homard au pamplemousse et fruits de la passion" (marinated tuna fish ravioli in tomato jelly, stuffed with lobster bolognaise with grapefruit and passion fruit). How can I say... 16,5/20 € Common main course. Er... Don't get me wrong! I mean "the same main course each"! "Saint-Pierre rissolé dans un beurre vanillé, bouillon d'artichaut émulsionné parfumé à l'orange" (John Dory fried in vanilla butter, artichoke stock emulsion with orange).

16,5/20. I could even go as far as 17/20 and keep a clear conscience. Second main course with "pluma de cochon ibérique rissolé au sautoir, mousseline de pomme de terre charlotte au gingembre et caramel d'oignons, beignet de sauge" (Iberian pork, potato puree charlotte with ginger and onion caramel, sage fritter) for Mauricette. As I tease her about her meditation, she crumples her Pompidolian brows and answers "the joke can't take a lack of seriousness". Then 16,5/20. For me: "noix de ris de veau en viennoise de pistache, une poêlée de girolles sur une fine galette croustillante" (sweetbread medal with pistachio nut, fried chanterelle mushrooms on a crisp wafer). There are other greedy titbits on the plate, top level vegetables and refined corners. 16,5/20. We end with a song: dessert. "Oreillons d'abricot poêlés à la cassonade, tarte sablée à la fleur de sel, crémeux de fromage blanc au romarin" (fried apricot halves with brown sugar, shortcrust pastry with fleur de sel, creamy fromage blanc with rosemary) given 16/20 by Mauricette. And 16,5/20 for "dans l'esprit d'un baba parfumé au rhum de Martinique, mousse Pina Colada, granité ananas coriandre" (like a baba with rum from the Martinique, Pina Colada mousse, pineapple and coriander granita). The granita is great, as is the rest. Bother! I haven't got time to talk about the setting, the attendance... But we had so much pleasure!