Hyeres (83) |
| La Belle Epoque
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When I mentioned "la Belle Epoque" to the decrepit Mauricette, it brought back memories to her. She doesn't remember which ones, but it makes no difference. It's her age. But I saw her dull eyes light up like headlamps when I suggested we went there. The dining room is still as charming as is the pretty, colourful terrace, both run by Corinne Dalmasso. She goes to lengths to make her interior as smiley as herself. The other aspect of her is her cookery, which for a restaurant is not insignificant. In this place where he arrived quite so, Bruno Menanteau was born in Châtellerault, and as a rhyme for the BàO, that's great. But for the taste-buds also. This chef has rapidly learnt the subtleties of Mediterranean cooking thanks to fortunate experience in places in St-Tropez and Bandol. With the lady with the green hat, we in turn have quickly learnt these subtleties as well. A mixture of tons of influences served in pretty dishes and even prettier crockery. The "cigares de camembert au pistou, cresson et tapenade" (camembert, basil and garlic cigars with cress and tapenade) are generous! I raise my hat to the quality of the vegetables, a small grocer up the street I think. 14,5/20! |  |
 | Me, "biscuit chaud de saumon fumé au corail d'oursin et asperges verts" (hot smoked salmon biscuit with sea urchin coral and green asparagus). Different from last year, smooth and has character, very pretty, and 15/20. A well applied sauce and here comes a dish of "gnocchi au chèvre et Roquefort" (goat's cheese and Roquefort gnocchi) for Mauricette, and could be shown off in cookery schools. Instead of teaching apprentices, which brand of packet to open, they would make customers happy with real sauces. A severe 14,5/20. As is my "cassolette de la mer au fenouil frais, beurre blanc safrané" (seafood with fresh fennel, white butter with saffron) which seems well prepared, the cooking times are right, which is not always the case. Conclusion with "salade de fruits frais" which is dominated by strawberries, noted 14/20. Here is how to spend a couple of pleasant hours at table: with a couple of restaurant proprietors who are happy doing their job, as if suddenly life was worth living. Remember: it was "la Belle Epoque"...
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| Welcome : |  | 17/20 |
| Attendance : |  | 16/20 |
| Quality/Price : |  | 14,5/20 |
| Setting : |  | 17/20 |
| Bread : |  | 14,5/20 |
| Coffee : |  | 15/20 |
| Toilettes : |  | 15,5/20 |
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| Chef : Bruno Menanteau |
Menus at 22 € and 30 €. Full menu. Children's menu 9 €. Late sittings. Groups up to 24 people. Covered patio on pedestrian street. Closed out of season on Sundays and Monday lunchtimes. In season on Sunday lunchtimes.
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