Le Bouche à Oreille
The Good tables, the Bad and the ones to avoid

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French Version
Cavalaire (83)
L'espadon
Promenade de la mer
83240 - Cavalaire
Phone : 04.94.64.66.05
Web site : restaurant.espadon.free.fr/
Very refined cooking

Whether rain or shine and facing the sea, this chef pilots his ship towards its destiny as a generous table. This seems to be the perfect restaurant according to the BàO criteria. On the opposite to medicine and according to himself, good old Grunberg is running a "generic" restaurant. What does that mean? "The same thing as prestigious restaurants, just as good, but cheaper". Restaurants... The principle being to eat well, giving us a good time, whist relieving us from the claws of everyday life which touch everyone, except maybe the opportunist food cheats who play cards in the winter but don't accept them in the summer as means of payment. These, the toque workers like "L'Espadon" stay open all year round. An attendance dressed up to the nines without slipping in to the sophisticated pompous. And cooking that never, ever forgets the essential. Refined native, a dangerous exercise: a classic reference always rings in the ear. Thus my dear friends arrives my starter after a multi faced "mise en bouche" (tantalizer), including a truffle crouton. The kind Mauricette would like to see on both sides of her bread! 15/20! A pure and generous dish "gourmandise de foie gras de canard en habit de fruits secs et demi-glace de chutneys léger" (greedy duck foie gras dressed in dry fruit with light chutney ice).

The home-made bread adds to the native taste that I love. 15,5/20. When I say native... Here is a "tête de veau à la sauge et petits légumes du terroir, sabayon à l'ail comme à l'hollandaise" (calfs head with sage and small native vegetables, garlic zabaglione dutch style). Served under a bell, a frying pan garnished with titbits. I dig in like a starving man, it's great, something difficult to achieve with this well known recipe. It stands out thanks to the light garlic zabaglione which is subtle. A second 15,5/20. The "Brie truffé" (truffle brie cheese) in my menu will have the last word. Like for the tantalizer, Mauricette would like to see both sides of the truffle! She's never happy! Anyway! Dessert ? Why yes of course. And 15/20 for a "poire caramélisée, crème légère à la liqueur de poire" (caramelized pear, light cream with pear alcohol) which is impeccable to conclude this feast. The Grunberg family is quite something! A great chef behind the stoves! A conscientious restaurant which throws dishes full of spirit in to the customers chops! It can happen facing the sea!

Welcome : 16/20
Attendance : 16/20
Quality/Price : 15/20
Setting : 16/20
Bread : 15/20
Coffee : 15/20
Chef : Jean-Philippe Grunberg

Menus at 27 €, 34 € and 42 €. A la carte. Shellfish, sea food for take-away! Seafood tray for two from 55 € to 80 €. Wine cellar including 120 AOC (controlled origin) wines at constant temperature and humidity. Lovely terrace. Closed on Tuesdays out of season. Booking recommended.