If I dare say so this house is well at ease and has every right to be so. Up until now there were few surprises or new ideas, which meant that any amazement was as rare as finding a bone in the stilton. Or in brousse cheese as this town is where it comes from. Of course the fish is fresh and anything based on it is always just right: bouillabaisse, fisherman's pot, homemade fish soup. But the carte has taken in a few regional recipes thus giving the place added insurance. Gosh, didn't I say that well. Example? "Poêlée de St-Jacques sauce aux cèpes, girolles" (fried shellfish with cep and chanterelle mushrooms). A deep hot plate allows me to take my time and to enjoy each morsel without it all going cold. The sauce is quite strong with a few pieces of artichoke heart to add to the recipe. It works really well for 15/20. Next I have a remarkable "magret de canard crème de foie gras" (duck breast with foie gras cream) it was a sporty lean beast.

The "légume rustique" (rustic vegetable) is one of the chef's specialities and remains on the menu but in a tagliatelles version. 15/20. The "crème brûlée, fruits de la passion" conforms to my expectations with a biscuit as a bonus. 14,5/20. The attendance is efficient and thoughtful as well as masculine and feminine. And knows what is expected without it showing. Fabrice Renoux and Sébastien Cros are polyvalent associates; they deal with either the dining room or the kitchen depending on their mood. Now that I have gone this far I can't turn back, I must go on and add that there's a full time panoramic sea view, you can see Marseille's Notre Dame de la Garde in the distance as well as Niollon's pretty little port. I didn't want to distract you by saying this earlier, there's no point in getting mixed up. Because however remarkable the panorama, it's the cooking that's worth the trip.