The Grangeon's is a restaurant such as our elders once knew. There's nothing pejorative or mocking in what I say, quite the contrary! But for wanting to be modern at all costs, most restaurants or so-called restaurants have themselves become square. Whilst the "Eyssauts" (and thankfully a few others, phew!) the values haven't changed a spud in a long time! You can have a feast in all seasons to the sound of cotton cloths and to the rhythm of perfectly assumed classic dishes! They are full of the subtlety that only rigorous sauce makers know how to do: Jean-Pierre Grangeon is an ace in this domain; he's a sort of watchmaker in dosing and adjusting the quantities! Even for desserts like pear or strawberry gateau! We all know that you can say "cutter-adjuster"! So! Here is fresh un-fiddled produce which is voluntarily rustic at times and is nearly always made to look good (new plates) as with my "feuilleté d'asperges aux petits légumes printaniers sauce mousseline" (asparagus in flaky pastry with small spring vegetables and mousseline sauce).

There's a great will to please the eye which isn't the usual thing for chefs who prefer old fashioned cooking in general. Well done and 15/20! Just as efficient is the "suprême de pintade farci aux girolles" (guinea fowl stuffed with chanterelle mushrooms). The meat is supple, the sauce is strong and the whole dish is convincing for 15/20. I don't know if the chef is doing self-mockery when proposing "tarte au citron revisitée" (revisited lemon pie). I wouldn't be surprised... It's just that this recipe has become so common elsewhere. The difference with the original version is the absence of pastry: a big glass with three layers. At the bottom is a sweet lemon cream, a crisp crumble is in the middle and a meringue covers the top. Super, 15/20. In the dining room Corine Grangeon and her team roll out natural smiling rigour. The park is taken care of by a master of the art and should be classed as world human heritage in the village of Grans. A restaurant that I invite you to try for yourselves to check our allegation and the height of our enthusiasm. Happiness and values! And paradise for claustrophobics! A bonus!