The Crouvoisier couple continues to navigate with regularity and serious. Regularity, serious but with smiles too. "Le Vieux Four" is going to end up as an institution that we didn't see coming. On some days, they have to push the walls, become bigger to welcome the greed's who are knocking on the window. This has been going on for 8 years now (already?) and every day the house is collecting belligerent dividends. Collaborators in the shade or the light, handpicked suppliers, fruit and veg chosen simply following the season. All of these good people are here at the service of fine and pertinent cuisine which is attached to making classic bases rebound. "Why re-do what has already been done, why not make it evolve?", this could be the maxim up in Frédéric Crouvoisier's kitchen. Ah! These famous snails! Fresh snails from a "Vieux Four" (old oven)! They don't stay fresh for very long in an oven these snails, oh, but here my little pink haired ladybirds, this is the best of the best! A local supplier.

A bandstand starter: "brochettes d'escargots au lard fumé et pain perdu" (snail kebab with smoky bacon and bread and butter pudding). Frankly delicious, and it doesn't mess around. It could give some ill-inspired cooks an idea for original recipes. 15/20. A casserole dish surrounded by pastry for my "homard et cèpes en cocotte de pâte feuilletée" (lobster and cepe mushrooms in a flaky pastry case). Clever! The mushroom is simmering in the subtly consumed. Laid on top nearly at liquid level and so steamed, the pieces of lobster are perfect, supple but crisp. Of course it's very hot, but are you in a hurry? 15/20. Do you like cheese? Local? Varied? Enjoy the "plateau de chèvre des Alpilles" (goat's cheese tray) and its bar code references on top. Nooo, it's not true! But this is a great native moment, and the bread is good. 15/20. The attendance is young and lively, the terrace is shaded by plane trees in the summer, and the cuisine is frank and healthy. There is a will to do well which is going to last, at least let's pray my dear brethren. It's just that time sometimes harms our dreams.